Fernandino Beach to St. Augustine

1.22.11 Saturday

Well I’m here in St. Augustine and it’s freezing!  What’s up with that?  Leaving Fernandino Beach, wearing everything I own in the early hours, I got out of the South Amelia River and into Nassau Sound.  After cutting across and into Sawpit Creek, I had the current and got through the bridge at the end of Sisters Creek with a call for an opening.  Once through, Atlantic Marine Drydock on the St. Johns River had this awesome navy ship under construction.  Talk about stealth!  This thing was all kinds of angles, like James Bond stuff, and BIG.  Huge dry dock there also as they build and service the cool navy ships.  Across the St. Johns River through the swirling current as I made my way into Pablo Creek for a long day through the boredom of mile after mile of the straight cuts of upper Florida.  I did change the chip in the GPS before I fell off edge of the earth.  Some fast times towards the end and when I made the last turn out of the Tolomato River, the tide was ripping.  I was hitting 9 knots when it suddenly was perpendicular to my course. Talk about sideways; finally I had to drive!  The depth reads 10 feet, uh oh, just for a minute though.  The autopilot drove all day for the most part with only a few degrees of change here and there and now the boat was all over the place.  Against the tide towards the open Bridge of Kings, I called the operator to keep it open, and he was nice enough to do so. I pushed the engine to the stops.  After making it through, the oil pressure was down and the temperature up, I slowed to idle and found a place to drop the hook.  Poor motor; recovered though after giving it a shot (and me) upon anchoring in the mooring field.  The engine took a quart, me not so much.  As they say, sailing is hours and hours of boredom followed by moments of stark terror.  Ah the wonders of the ICW.  MM716.5

Brunswick to Fernandino Beach

1.22.11 Saturday

Another cold morning but what else is new.  Nice showers here at the Brunswick Landing Marina and I take full advantage.  After some writing and cleaning, I fuel up with the high speed pump and manage to spit some fuel out of the vent.  Being somewhat prepared with a rag under the vent exit, I catch the majority but still have a bit of a mess.  None hits the water though as the vent is located in the coaming, just some oily teak to deal with.  Depart just after 11 which was the plan as I don’t want to buck the tide out into St. Simons Sound.  After passing under the huge suspension bridge, my course is to Jekyll Creek.  As I head across the sound, I’m visited by the Coast Guard for an inspection, great.  Slowing the boat and opening the gate to ease the Coasties entrance, I continue (on autopilot) as 3 of the life jacketed, gun toting boys ask ‘may I see your papers please’ but without the German accent.  Life jackets, fire extinguishers, etc., etc.  Nice enough guys with lots of unrelated questions and they keep referencing their handbook.  Quite a few things they didn’t ask about like the waste system, flares, horn, and the placard instructing about disposal of garbage at sea that is supposed to be stuck somewhere in plain view.  I’ve got it but it’s not stuck.  Anyway, I’m given my ‘get out of jail free’ card, good for a year or so, stating no violations.  They tumble back into their bright orange inflatable craft and I throttle up into Jeykll creek and around the back side of the island with the same name.  This sends me way out into St. Andrews Sound for a long ride towards the ocean to get around Horseshoe Shoal.  This place is riddled with sand bars and breakers to the left and right as the ocean sweeps in.  I’m out around 2 miles before I turn back south and get behind Cumberland Island.  Slow going now against considerable tide.  Real slow.  After a while I do catch up with the boat I’ve been following all day as they unfurl their jib for the 6^th time.  The breeze is up to 10 knots at around 2 PM so I hoist the main for a little boost (hopefully) and more for something to do.  I does help but needs constant tending as I wind down the Cumberland River.  After a tricky turn that the  shows I’m on dry land according to the GPS, I’m zipping through Cumberland Sound at 9 knots past the King’s Bay Naval Base with it’s submarine pens.  A bunch of confusing ranges here but lots of deep water.  Time to ditch the main and I do so at the entrance to the St. Marys River and then start to head that way only to see that is not the Intercoastal; whoops.  After reorienting myself, it’s another couple of miles into the Amelia River and another couple to my intended anchorage.  It’s getting on 5 o’clock as I pass this huge factory spewing steam from a dozen stacks and monster piles of what looks like sawdust. A jumble of big tubes, conveyors, silos, cranes, etc.; all on the edge of a long deep water bulkhead.  Into Bells River opposite the marina and around the bend to find boats anchored all over.  I pick my spot in 15 feet of water and get the hook set in the tide opposing the wind.  Sitting pretty as the sun sets over the marshes of the Tiger Basin. MM716.5

Teakettle to Brunswick, GA

 1.21.11 Friday

A gray start with the thermometer not quite touching the 50 mark and the anchor is up at 8.  Had to clear Kon Tiki off as the tide brought rafts of weed through the creek overnight.  One such ‘raft’ went by the previous evening giving me a start as it scraped along the hull.  Out into Doboy Sound and across at a reasonable clip, through the creeks and rivers past Doboy, Queens and Wolf Islands exiting Mud Creek to Altamaha Sound. The back range was missing so I had to pay close attention to stay on course.  Then Buttermilk Sound to Makay River and around the back side of St. Simons Island.  As I exited into St. Simons Sound my speed was phenomenal but it couldn’t last.  Can’t have it both ways and as I turned into the Brunswick River I thought I’d never get to the huge bridge ahead.  Found a few new bouys not indicated on the chart but an uneventful slog, under the bridge and into the East River to the Brunswick Landing Marina.  Went past the broken down Port Authority docks and shrimper fleet. After tying up it was off to town for a few essentials and a walking tour.  Some beautiful old buildings, trees draped with Spanish moss, and an effort to keep the public plots tidy, but overall looking very worn.  Back to the boat for some chores (like polish the dodger window so I could at least kind of see through it).  The Cargo Dockside Grill came highly recommended (6^th best in the state) and strolled over there after cleaning up. The place was packed with standing room only at the bar so I sidled up and ordered a Johnnie Cochran (that’s a vodka tonic with a splash of OJ).  Well that started the conversation and finally some seating became available so me and the two guys I was talking with scoffed them up.  Scotty, after buying the drinks, said he had to go next door to the bar he owned to check up and invited me over for a pop.  Wouldn’t you know, it was the “Gentleman’s Club” in town.  You can’t make this shit up.  Hell of a nice guy by the way.  He had to take off and I went back to Cargo for an excellent meal.  Got talking to a couple dining at the bar with me who insisted on buying me a pound cake purported to be the competition winner 3 years running.  Very nice;  Brunswick is on the list of nice stops along the journey. MM680

Isle of Hope to Teakettle

1.20.11 Thursday

I start up the engine and let it run for a while to make sure there is no air in the lines after draining the fuel filter and reprimeing.  This is about a quarter to 8, then to the fuel dock to top off the tank.  Spent the few minutes transposing the log which I’ve been scribbling with a pencil of the fiberglass coaming, very convenient but I’m running out of space.  I suppose if I was ambidextrous I would have the other side!  Got fuel, ditched the trash and left at a bit after 9.  Made my way down the Skidaway River through the ‘narrows’  and to the Vernon River to the cut called Hell Gate.  Not too hellacious and into the Ogeechee River.  It’s 1030 and I’m fighting the current again as I crawl into the Florida Passage at 4.5 knots against almost 3 knots of current.  Then the Bear River at 1130 and bam, 8+ again as I’m sluiced out into St. Catherines sound on the out going tide.  Hit 9 knots, outstanding!  A sweep around to the southwest into the North Newport River, through Johnson Creek then the, you guessed it, the South Newport River.  It’s now a little after 2 in the afternoon and I have to figure out a stopping point as I turn into Sapelo Sound.  West again into the Sapelo River, then the Front River for some more chicanery as I make my way into Old Teakettle Creek.  I’m fighting the current now and it’s just after 4.  Press on regardless, damn the dolphins cavorting gracefully along side, full speed ahead at 5.5 knots.  I decide on New Teakettle Creek as Old Teakettle is getting old.  Make the turn and find myself in 30 feet of water after crossing the 8 foot bar and it’s nobody but me, the dolphins, and birds of every description.  Around the bend past Marys Creek to find a spot with 15 feet of water and anchor right there in the middle of the creek.  It’s just before 5 and I have arrived at my destination.  What a beautifully secluded spot with nothing but marshes and a little creek off to west.  MM646

Lay Day at Isle of Hope

1.19.11 Wednesday

A lay day at Isle of Hope and the dinghy gets launched via the new spinnaker halyard hooked onto the painter and goes off without a hitch.  Wouldn’t what to try it in any kind of breeze however, as it would make a terrible kite with it’s hard bottom.  Outboard on, dig out the gas tank and other accouterments and low and behold, it starts on the second pull.  Would have started on the first if I gave the cord a hearty enough yank. Wonders never cease. Off to the dock and a long walk to Savannah.  After gathering some necessities at the local Piggly Wiggly and CVS, I called a cab for the ride back but not before the 5 mile ride each way to your friendly neighborhood West Marine.  Yes, they have butane and they’ll have it at the counter when I do my flyby.  I’m glad I picked up a map before leaving the marina as I have to navigate for the cab driver.  Quite a character, born and raised in Savannah. Not so cheap for ‘Kenyon’ name on the fuel made in Korea and the cab fare makes it way too much.  Oh well, the cruising life.  Back to the boat to stow my purchases, then back to the marina for some hydro therapy (read long hot shower).  After the reverse dinghy process it’s some maintenance.  I discovered the previous day that I had left the cap off after fueling in Beaufort and of course it rained that night.  I drained the fuel filter which doubles as a water separator and out came a half cup of water from the bottom.  Glad I installed that piece of gear.  After cleaning up, dinner aboard and then plan for the next days’ adventure.

Beaufort to Isle of Hope

1.18.11 Tuesday

I awake at my usual 0500 and start planning the day with a hot cup of coffee but have to change out the gas canister and find it’s the last one, drat.  It’s 45 degrees and overcast with fog on the surface, no wind at all.  I finally shove off at 0930, down the Beaufort River and have a very favorable current, doing over 8.5 knots!  Down past St. Helna Island and across Port Royal Sound where I make the turn past Parris Island, my speed is way down to 5.8 knots.  Passed another snow bird in a pretty big ketch, the ?? Ashley; can’t make out the name completely, visibility still less than a mile.  I’m in the Chechessee River, then turn into Skull Creek where my speed increases a bit and wander down past Hilton Head Island around noon to Calibouge Sound where I’m cruising along at 8 knots.  Leaving Calibogue, I enter the Cooper River, then Ramshorn Creek, the New River, Wright River, Fields Cut and finally the Savannah River for a short run across current into the Wilmington River via the Elba Island Cut.  Sound confusing?  Well yes, but with a chart on the GPS and the route drawn on there, the autopilot driving, it’s not too bad.  Just don’t pay attention for a few minutes and you’re sure to run up on a bank or worse, hit a marker. Some of it is a straight run in open water so you can make lunch or use the head.  OK, done with the Wilmington, bypassing Thunderbolt, and I skid into the Skidaway River and down to the Isle of Hope where I hope to find some butane for my stove.  Anchor at 1625 by the Isle Of Hope marina across from Skidaway Island just off the channel with a half dozen boats on resident moorings.  The full moon rises and lights the calm waters with incandescent reflections of clouds and marsh grasses; nice spot to spend the night.  MM590

Charleston to Beaufort, SC

1.17.11 Monday

Leave the Mega Dock at the Charleston City Marina at 0730 and head south.  It’s 50 degrees with a chance of rain.  By 0905 I’m through the Limehouse swing bridge in the Stono River and the long and winding road of the Low Country of South Carolina awaits.  By 1115 I’m in full foul weather gear and booking along at 8.5 knots.  And on it goes to the Wadmalaw, N. Edsito, North Creek, S. Edsito, Ashepoo Rivers and the various ‘cuts’ that link them together.  At the end of the Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff at 1340 or so, I perform my second rescue of the trip and tow a fellow traveler off the bar at the end of the cut.  There is only 6 feet of water at the most  and the tide is going out, fast.  After their second toss and a little tricky maneuvering in the current, I yank them off and into the channel.  Off into the Coosaw River, which empties into St. Helna sound at 8+ knots.  I’m greeted by dolphins at the entrance to Brickyard Pass at 1500 and shortly after, the sun peeks out and I can shed some gear.  Almost there and at 1600 I slow for the Ladies Island swing bridge.  Ten minutes later, I’m tied up in beautiful downtown Beaufort (South Carolina that is)!  I top off the fuel, stow my gear, lock down the boat and tour the town.  Very nice waterfront park with a bunch of restaurants facing the river.  I duck into Hemingway's for a beer and few laughs with the sparse local crowd (like 3 people).  Then a burger at Lester’s next door and back to the boat in the intermittent showers. MM563.3

Out there again to Charleston

1.13.11 - 1.14.11

Got the kids off at around 9AM and I replaced 5 broken sail slides, thawing my fingers after each one.  Went over the boat checking all shackles and pins, oil check, all secure.  At just before 11, left the dock and set the main as soon as I had room.  Out the inlet into the wild blue again.  The water had a distinct line with tan on one side and dark blue on the other as I  turned to my course at noon.  Its predicted to be 10 to 15 from the WNW, going NW.  Rolled out the jib and stopped the engine.  Ahhhhh.  Shook out the reef and sailed all afternoon at 7 knots, slowing to 6 when the breeze dropped to 10 knots.  What a beautiful thing with the blue-black ocean the only thing in sight.  Winds when progressively lighter and more north.  By 3 AM,  boat speed was down to 4.5 and I roll up the jib, sheet the main in hard and motor away towards Charleston.  There is a huge ship anchored off the channel entrance that looks like a city block with all the lights on.  It’s so bright, I can see it for hours before I get close  and it obscures the MoA bouy just beyond.  As the dawn breaks I make the turn into the ship channel and point toward the lighthouse.  It’s 8 miles to the jetties and I’m a little early for the tide change, oh well.  Then another 8 or so to the City Marina Dock.  I’m tied up and checked in by 9:30.  Nice passage, nice place; welcome to Charleston.  Had breakfast, met the local sailmaker and had the jib in his loft by 11, repaired by 3. I really like this town already!  Cleaned, washed and worked on the boat for the remainder of the day until I crashed, hard, at 9.MM464

1.15.11 - 1.16.11 

Weekend was spent working on the boat, oil change, repairing broken woodwork, sorting and stowing.  Changed thermostat on engine (been running too cool) and found that the off shore air time and subsequent landing pulled the starboard engine mounts apart.  Not good but all still works until I get replacement units, install and realign the engine.  I guess that accounts for the increase in vibration!  Nice to have most of the salt off.  Taped up the dodger as best I could and ran out off sticky back dacron tape.  It will do, really need new one but not today.  Loads and loads of laundry and finally out on the town Sunday night for a pub crawl.  Great place, everyone calm and courteous, nice bars and restaurants.  Met a Rodney Dangerfeild  ringer in one place, uncanny.  Cab back to the boat, off tomorrow for more points south.

Beaufort to Southport

1.11.11

Snow still covers the dock but the deck is clear as we leave the city dock.  Out around Radio Island and through Morehead City commercial shipping area.  As we make our way down the “ditch” we get passed by 2 motor yachts, one being “Mims” from Mattituck, NY, my home town.  Uneventful ride until we get to the Onslow Bridge a little early and have to wait for an opening.  Pressing on in the cool temps and occasional sprinkles, we get to Surf City Bridge at 1610 and have to wait for the “top of the hour” meaning 5 PM.  Still have a way to go till we get to Harbour Village Marina at MM267.3 and it will be dark.  Got to get the bridge timing better.  The hammer goes down and push along at 8+ knots in the waning light.  Entrance turns out to be straight forward and we tie up at the fuel dock and fill up.  They got 9 inches of snow and have no plows, and I guess no shovels?  The dock is a hazard with the snow melted underneath and now starting to refreeze.  Mike Moran, the dockmaster, keeps telling us to be careful.  Of course as he leaves, down the stairs he goes; no damage though.  Buttoned up for the night in our warm cabin, it’s dinner and bed.

1.12.11

Nice hot shower in the morning after navigating the ice covered landscape. We cast off at 0835 and jump back into the ditch.  It’s 32 degrees with a sharp WNW breeze at 15k.  We get to the Figure Eight Bridge just a bit early but guess what; it’s broken and the electrician is “on his way”.  We’re advised to anchor and we do, trying to get the hook on the side of the channel in shallow water. It took 2 tries as the chain was a knotted mass in the locker from our offshore jaunt.  What a mess, there is no paint left up there either.  The bridge operator hails us that they’re going to give it a shot; we fire up the diesel and hoist the anchor.  Great, it works.

On the road again but it’s 1230.  Pass 2 brand new catamaran ferries headed north; the York (New York) and the Jersey (New Jersey) presumably to be pressed into service.  In the afternoon we go through Snows Cut with the current howling against us and our boat speed goes down to less than 5k. The sand banks on both sides look like adobe.  Then into the Cape Fear River and lots of ranges to figure out.  No problem and unrolled some jib for a while.  Seemed like the depth sounder was stuck on 46 feet for hours.  It works.  We pull into Southport Marina just after 4PM and tie up for the night.  Out to town for dinner at Loco Jo’s, (yes, she’s loco), then back to the boat to wait for Andrew’s friend and his gal coming down from Charlotte.  This is his ride out and when they arrive it’s time to catch up for the high school buds.  Until 2AM!  Finally settled them into the forward cabin and got some much needed shut eye.  Tomorrow’s another day, as it usually is. MM309.3

Offshore Jaunt

1.8.11

So we left Beaufort at around 9 am on Friday and made our way out to the inlet (of course bucking the last of the incoming tide) and set sail for Charleston via Frying Pan Shoal as our first waypoint.  The west wind was not to be and had more south than west, but hey.  Up wind sailing is no stranger so we trimmed up and were having a fine romp on the ocean.  The weather prediction called for a shift to Northwest that night and hoped to carry the change to speed us to our destination.  Conditions were a little windier than broadcast and we took a reef in the main when winds got to be 20, gusting to 25.  Andrew was feeling the effects of the “ocean motion” at this point and I should have canned it then and there but being the optimistic, stubborn skipper that I am, pressed on regardless.  Upwind is fine but 25+ is work and we’ve got it going really good hitting 7 at times.  Decided to throw in the second reef to make it easier for the autopilot to keep the boat on course.  Sun has now disappeared and there is no decrease in wind speed, just the opposite.  We are sailing very fast up wind in almost a pure southerly in 25, gusting to 30.  We started to roll in a bit of jib and the lead block slid aft and twisted off the top of the jib.  Clip in and move the lead.  Conditions now are a bit rough and Andrew is in full Mal De Mar mode so it’s all me for the evening jaunt.  On we go into the darkness and lo and behold, more wind; and with a vengeance.  Rolled up more jib (it’s only a 110 to start at best) and blasting through some sizeable rollers.  Into the night with the autopilot doing an admiral job.  Tried to get wind info to the pilot to steer to a wind angle but to no avail.  I guess not the best time to fix stuff.  Couple of slams as the boat takes on a few big waves but no big deal.  Now it’s around 8pm and we’re flying along at 7+ K but still not close to pointing at our Frying Pan Shoal waypoint, well maybe to the way outside bouy.  Guess what, more south and more velocity.  Surprised? NOT.  30k is now the norm and decide to give us an advantage by motor sailing thru till the northerly materializes.  Still getting 5-6 k over the bottom.  Looks like this is going to be a long evening.  Onward and, unfortunately, upward.  Where is that Northerly?  We pinged the SPOT somewhere along the line here but don’t have the position info as we’re in the real romp mode now.  All the reef lines and halyard for the main come back to the cockpit with 2 winches and stoppers so it was “cake“ throwing in the reef.  Got to say, nice set up, Pete.  Of course the wind, being what it is, did not cooperate and just mocked us with more velocity.  In comes the jib but not without effort, probably due to the 2000# of backstay applied earlier.  Got it in but the roll leaves a loose piece of leach hanging out that flaps a bit at times.  Not the direction we want to go and now with no jib, the motor gets some more revs and we can get 5 knots of boat speed, just off head to wind.  By now the wind is blowing with a vengeance, got everything cranked to the max, boat going OK to weather and jumping over a few waves with a little slam here and there.  Seas are maybe 8 to 10 foot and it’s pitch black.  What can you do?  Where is that Northerly?  We’re getting a little beat up at this point as there is no decrease in wind speed; just the opposite.  Boat is doing great, all systems go, full speed ahead.  Ohhh yeah.  A few blasts come trough packing a punch and the autopilot beeps and gives up.  It can’t deal with the pressure it’s time for me to drive.  And I did of course.  Wild, especially when it decided to give me a few blasts in the 40’s . YIKES .  We launched the boat off a few of the larger rollers and came down with a slam but not something I was unprepared for, just jarring.  Now we were sailing in 35 steady with gusts over 40.  You’ve got to realize, we’re 30 miles offshore  in 100+ ft of water and it’s 10 PM. What can you do. We’re motoring now with a double reef, and no jib trying to keep the heel angle below 25 degrees, max for this engine or you loose oil pressure.  We’re still making headway but only 3-4k and the waves seem extraordinary.  Am I going to turn on the deck light to see? I don’t think so.  Now we’re launching the boat off some waves on a regular basis.  Still nothing but more wind from the south and HARD.  Ah, Yachting at it’s best.  We’re rolling through these incredible waves and they’re way too close together.  And it just gets better.   The engine alarm goes off and the oil pressure is down to 20 lbs, 60 being the norm so it’s engine off.  It’s pitch dark, still more than 20 miles to Frying Pan shoal bouy, our waypoint.  Not close to being up wind enough and we find this monster wave that we decide to launch out of at maybe 3 knots under double reefed main.  Let me tell you now, Great Adventure or any other water park you can name couldn’t give you this ride.  We were weightless for about 2 seconds as the boat left the water, heeled over and came down with a resounding crash opening every drawer and spewing everything everywhere.  The hit was so bad that I thought the rig was going to drop through the boat.  Oh My GOD.  A quick bilge check and on we go, no crew and no pilot so it was a real quick check.  At this point it was time to turn tail and run with it.  Spun the boat  on the top of a wave and eased out the main.  OK, we’re sailing now.  But we’re going east and FAST, I’m talking 8-9k and hitting 10 at times.  Trying to keep the boat going due east, do not desire to jibe at this point, and Andrew pops his head out of the hatch.  His eyes get like saucers as he looks behind us at a huge roller cresting over my shoulder.  Where are the life jackets he asks.  Seconds later he’s back below into the semi fetal position that he’s adopted for the voyage.  Poor guy, just wanted to go ocean sailing.  This is not great as we’re headed to Europe and I don’t have THAT much food aboard.  After about an hour of this with the jib flapping like a machine gun when it isn’t blanketed by the main, the wind starts to shift to the north.  It couldn’t have done this earlier?  After making sure there are no lines trailing in the water, engine on long enough for a chicken jibe to head us in the right direction.  It’s said that gentleman don’t sail to weather; I guess I’m not one of those guys.  OK, gentlemen be damned, it’s upwind again back toward our departure point.  I’m pretty tired now and rolled out a tab of jib with the lead all the way forward, got the bow pointed north and set the wheel brake to keep us moving slowly through the confused seas.  Our actual course made good was towards Beaufort at around 2 knots.  Finally below into the warmth of the cabin and a bit of mopping up and closing drawers, stuff everywhere.  The heater feels great, please don’t quit.  After shedding all the soggy stuff and donning some (relatively) dry gear it’s time to nod off for a few minutes at a time.  Boat is doing well with a much kinder motion.  Through the night with the wind now at a sedate 25k, Venus looks down upon us as the sky starts to brighten.  Suited up again, it’s out into the COLD morning air and  a quick inspection of the deck and gear.  We had so much water coming across the deck that it shifted the dinghy on the foredeck and floated the cushions it was sitting on overboard.  Dodger window has the stitching blown out, whisker pole wore a groove in the teak toerail as it floated on and off in the constant surge of water coming over the leeward rail.  Rolled out about half the jib and got the boat rolling again, sailing now at a respectable 6.5 knots and headed in the right direction.  Not really the intended right direction but the gang’s all here.  I guess the autopilot just needed a nap too because it’s working just fine again.  Down below I start to make some sense of the pile and find that we’ve shifted everything.  Locker lids under the cushions have moved, our pile of clothing in the fore cabin has migrated aft into a sodden mess from the forward hatch leak.  The table is cockeyed as the mount glued to the hull has broken free and the port settee front has also broken from it’s lower fastenings.  Half a dozen sail slugs are broken but the full batten slides are still in place.   Mast wedges have fallen out and every where it’s wet, wet, wet.  We get back to the inlet and after an engine check (oil level fine) we fire the baby up, got pressure, all systems go.  Got inside, dropped the main and went to the Beaufort town dock.  Andrew is now cured and just about poised to jump off and run to the nearest eatery for a burger.  And that’s what we do, back in Beaufort again.

1.9.11

29 degrees greets us in beautiful downtown Beaufort this morning and it being a day of rest, it’s time to get to work.  Water has gotten everywhere and find more stuff shifted around.  Have to say though, not a broken jar, plate or glass anywhere.  Even the eggs are intact.  Well actually the barometer does have a cracked face from the rapidly falling pressure (and sudden stop).  Wiping every thing down will be an all day project.  Decide to get the cushions clean and the clothes sorted before doing the full monty on the woodwork.  Cleared out the cockpit locker so I could do an inspection of all the stuff down under and find it’s a salt mine down there.  The blower hose is hanging loose and find it’s got a gallon of water in it.  Guess that’s why.  Tachometer has more than just condensation, it’s dripping inside; out that comes and empty the water.  A little spray stuff and the warm cabin have that cured.  And so it goes throughout the day.  Andrew finds the local pool hall and is gone for the afternoon.  After dinner it’s off to the Cru Bar for a cocktail and some local color.

1.10.11

Hopes of an early start are dashed as it’s snowing to beat the band.  Flakes are huge and not a soul in sight.  Pretty, if you like that sort of thing but enough already.  Back to bed.  We try to do laundry but no, laundry is closed.  Another day of repairs and desalting and did get the table reinstalled.  It’s supposed to rain tonight and get warmer, maybe the snow will be gone by tomorrow.  Then another day in the ditch.

Norfolk Onward

Norfolk Onward

12.29.10

After a long drive down from Cutchogue and a stop in Brooklyn to pick up my nephew Andrew for crew, we made it to Norfolk.  Providence got us off the road and to an open Chinese takeaway.  Found our way to the marina and followed the narrow path shoveled on the dock to board a snow covered boat.  Fired up the heater and shivered as we ate way too much food.  It’s now past midnight but another glass is in order.

12.30.10

Got the boat and dock shoveled off and proceeded to drag cart after cart of stuff aboard. Jeanette took off back to NY after we went out for breakfast and more supplies.  Stowed what we could, fueled up, scrubbed the bottom (Dri-Diver), and of course paid the bill.

12.31.10

We’re off!  Got out of the slip but couldn’t turn because of the ice.  A little cowboy action carved a hole to spin the boat and NOW we’re off at around 8.  Long motor against the tide around Willoughby Pt. and through Hampton Roads to see a massive array of floating taxpayer steel, all gray by the way.  Got to Mile Marker “0”, the start of the Intercoastal Waterway at 11 and were waiting for our first bridge, a 12:30 opening.  Smelled fuel and discovered a drip at #1 injector and the first wrench comes out, fixed.  At 2PM we were “locked up” in Great Bridge.  Upon exiting we found more ice because of the brackish water and decided to stop right there at the marina, Atlantic Yacht Basin.  Ice had stopped a few other late leavers for the past 2 days.  Covered wet winter storage at the marina, ideal for the wooden craft.  Saw a nice Benz wagon and chatted up the owner who happened to know my MB from Greenport, identified by the (rare) cross bars on the roof rails; small world.  We got our barge to kill the ice; 2 tugs moving 10,000 ft of pipe, quite a sight.  New Years Eve at Big Woody’s with the promise of a barge coming thru that night to break up the ice.  A good time was had by yaw’l.

1.1.11

Ping the SPOT and gone at 8:45, first bridge after a short wait at 9.  Still dodging ice on the way through the North Landing River.  Shut the ole girl down at just about noon with a fuel smell again and stuck the nose into another ice flow.  Tried to patch the leak but no success, same injector.  Under way again at 1320, MM”35”.  Got the sails up at 1400 and killed the diesel but only got a ½ hr of pure sailing and rolled up the jib at Bell point.  Arrived at Coinjock, Midway Marina at 1530 and tied up.   LOTS of fuel in engine pan and some found it’s way to the bilge.  Gloves come out (along with buckets, pumps and oil absorbent pads).  Remember the Benz from Great Bridge?  We got a call and a dinner invite by Roxy including transport in the Benz, sweet.  Good company, great meal, and a gal that builds ships in bottles. Gabreil @ shipinbottles.com; great web site.  Got back to the boat and proceeded to clean and epoxy the fuel line at injector.  Did not expect it to work but hoped to slow it down at least.

1.2.11

Leave Coinjock at 10:30 and proceeded to spill a large coffee onto the nav seat.  Nice start to the day and of course the epoxy “fix” didn’t take.  Boat REEKS.  Then into the “mist”ic.  The fog was so thick at times it seemed that smoke was coming over the bow.  Thank the powers that be for GPS and charting software.  We were just about blind all day.  We new the mark should be right about here and sure enough it would pop out of the fog like an apparition, sometimes a little close.  Got across Albemarle Sound with 15k+ on the nose and into the Alligator River, found most of the marks along the way.  As soon as we turned around Long Shoal Point, we found the shoal, twice.  It seems that following the “Magenta Line” on the chart is not always applicable, especially if it’s an ‘86 vintage chart, a very good year by the way.  We got off with lots of revs and a bit of bouncing and proceeded to the alligator river swing bridge, knotmeter stopped working as we stirred up who knows what.  Now we’re at MM “81” or so and the rain starts in earnest.  It’s getting late in the afternoon and blowing out of the SW hard; the question is where to stop.  Weather prediction calls for higher gusts and a switch to the north that night.  Out comes “Skipper Bob’s Anchorages Along The Intercoastal Waterway”.  What a find.  Turned west off the channel at around MM94.5 and headed for the waypoint noted in the book. If you can imagine the fog and the wind and the waning daylight and heading towards a shoreline you can’t see I have to say, YIKES.  After about a mile we felt a warm breeze off the land and the fog lifted only to reveal a line of stumps and dead trees sticking up all over.  Oh my god.  Proceeding to our waypoint over the bar (6-7ft) we found deeper water but went in a little far so back around and to the north was indeed a channel that took us into the greatest little anchorage that you could hope for.  Around the bend west again we saw 24ft!  Dropped the hook in 17ft as it turned dark and gusted to 25k.  NICE!  Dinner on the hook without civilization in sight.  And did I mention, pump the fuel out of the engine pan, at least it’s not getting to the bilge.

1.3.11

Wake early (as always) and popped the hatch to see Venus burning a hole in the sky.  Wall to wall stars and no land light to spoil it, cold with a stiff N breeze.  Got the anchor up and let it hang to wash as we made our way back out.  When I hit the foot switch to pull it up, it flipped off the roller and launched the blackest, stickiest mud all over me and the bow.  Must have  taken me half an hour to clean my jacket.  Back into the ICW and onwards to the Alligator/Pungo River canal.  26 miles down the cut with only an occasional push of the +1-1 buttons on the autopilot to stay on track.  Bridges are now all 75ft vertical clearance so no waiting.  Pushed along at 7kts so made good time and popped out into the Pungo River to head for Belhaven.  Arrived at River Forest Marina, the first one in, at 1340 and tied up.  Good to get off and breathe some air without the pungent, pugnacious, permeating smell of diesel that has contaminated everything.  Sketchy cell service but was able to get the local Westerbeke distributor on the line.  No part in stock anywhere, 3 weeks and $600 for a 14” pipe with 2 nuts. Axson (riverforestmarina.com) was helpful and I walked the 3 blocks to the “boatyard” proper, JW was waiting for me and made some calls.  Of course he told me what I already knew but called “Charlie” who has the place diesels go when they die.  Had Kevin check my shop for the old lines (that I replaced) but I must have tossed them or they’re still hidden in the mess.  We’ll see if Charlie comes through.  Tina, the hotel manager takes us into town with a limited array of takeaways but the Food Lion grabs another $100 for a cart load of provisions.  Back to the boat and a smelly slumber.

1.4.11

A day of unloading boxes, stow and restow; man do we have a boat load of shit.  Another stroll to the BY and JW; he’s heard from Charlie and is headed out to get some lines off a Perkins  4-108 which is same base engine as the W-50.  Well surprise, neither of the 2 he comes back with will work as they are too short.  Talk of sleeveing and welding, Axson has a guy coming from Texas tomorrow; does he have one?  I’m sure not, but low and behold, just after I silver soldered the crack in the broken line, JW pulls through with a line that’s not the right part but a little longer and has the right ends.  How much? $100, SOLD!  After about an hour of bending, the pretzel line is installed and leak free. YES!  Cleaned up as best as possible, and then cleaned me.  Did the previous post using poor cell service and “Tether” to laptop.  Works great if you have cell service.

1.5.11

Out o Dodge at 0820.  Across the Palmico River and into Goose Creek where we find “Incognito” aground just inside the first turn. Stopped as they rowed a line to us and we pulled them off.  Back to speed at 1042.  Blah blah blah, click off the miles.  Fuel gauge hasn’t moved, run quite a few hours and 5 gals of lost fuel along with the heater running 24/7, I pull the fuel sender and see we are getting close to empty.  Slowed down a bit but not to far to go; we’ll make it.  And we did.  Oriental Marina at 1500 for fuel and dock.  46.8 gal in a 50 gal tank.  Pulled it off again.  We’re at the dock and Asa Gatlin strolls down with a 6 pack and a greeting from Cleave Horton, Seafrost.com, who’s following my SPOT pings. I send a position update upon departure and arrival, daily when moving. Link below. Nice welcome from another Bud in the business, pun intended.  Internet service and Andrew updates his facebook page including pics.  Hit the Toucan for a cocktail then to M&M’s for dinner for some local color.  Nice friendly town.

http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0GCrnTADovl57OoclOvO7yqAECYXgj71

1.6.11

Morning in Oriental brings us to the Bean for Java where we meet the couple we pulled off that morning.  They docked in Whittaker Creek to replace an injector.  A few chores aboard and plotting our next course of action.  Leave at just before noon after a hot shower and across the Neuse River in 2 k of breeze out of the North.  Into Adams Creek and another “cut” to Core Creek.  We cut off the main route at Russell Creek just after MM”200” and take the Russell Slough Channel SSE.  This winds around with visible bars close aboard.  As we make the turn into Gallants Channel, dolphins are everywhere.  We slow way down and try to get some video which I’ll try to post at some point (must edit and compress).  We speed back up and get the Beaufort Bridge to open at 1503, all the operators are as nice as can be.  Get into town dock area and decide to anchor as there is nothing we really need.  Rigged the jack lines and prepared for ocean sailing.  Tomorrow it’s off to Charleston.  If you like cold, ice and the smell of diesel, this was the trip for you.

SPOT messenger

More to come when I can get on line with a real connection.
Here's the link to my SPOT satellite messenger.  Ping at start and end of day.
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0GCrnTADovl57OoclOvO7yqAECYXgj71r 
At Belhaven, SC at the moment with cracked fuel pipe to injector. 2 gal fuel in engine pan each day and boat reeks of diesel fuel, not the best part but all else working beautifully.